GARAGE DOOR WON T OPEN WITH REMOTE SERIES

I recently had the same issue with a LiftMaster 3280-067 1/2HP opener made in 2005. I only wish I would have googled my problem first and I could have saved some time troubleshooting this problem. Kudos and thanks to everyone else who has troubleshot and solved this problem before. Hope this information helps somebody else if they have garage door problems similar to mine. Now I only used a 330uF, 25V capacitor, because that's what I had.

GARAGE DOOR WON T OPEN WITH REMOTE SERIES

I calculated all the ESR values for the Nichicon, and Panasonic ECA series and the FR series and it appears that any of these would solve the problem as alternate replacements for the problem with my garage door opener. Any of the capacitors listed in this forum would have worked fine.

So I replaced my capacitor C22 with a Panasonic EEU-FR1E331, 330uF, 25V capacitor which has a 56mohm impedance. So then I was like okay somebody has to have seen this type of problem somewhere else before on their Craftsman garage door openers which is how I found this site which confirmed my thoughts that my troubleshooting logic was on point. Because I'm a degreed senior electrical engineer who designs printed circuit boards for a living I checked in my capacitor kit I have at home to see if I could find a replacement capacitor and I unfortunately didn't have a 330uF 35V capacitor, but I did have a Panasonic 330uF, 25V ultra low ESR (equivalent series resistance) capacitor in my kit, and knowing that the capacitor was being used in a 5V regulator circuit I knew it should work fine. Initially as you can see from the picture of what I'll call the back side of the printed circuit board there was some contaminants on the printed circuit board next to the little surface mount ceramic capacitor, but I was able to clean it off with no problem. Sorry these pictures are before I did the replacement and cleaned the board, but I'm not taking it all apart to get new pictures. I have attached pictures below showing my logic board with capacitor front and back. This is most likely why other pictures show the capacitor with a different reference designator than C22. My Craftsman model is older with a part number 41A5021-3C label on it. So I started looking at the canned radial aluminum electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and I saw the capacitor C22 (330uF, 35V radial canned aluminum electrolytic) that was next to U1 the LM340T5 which is a 5V positive regulator and thought this might be a good candidate to replace. So then I was like okay something is interfering with the wireless signal and I know aluminum electrolytic capacitors can start to degrade over time and I know my garage door is over 20 years old. So I initially thought maybe the antenna wasn't making good contact so I re-soldered it and that didn't solve the problem. So I thought ok something is wrong with the circuitry on the logic board, because the door would open and close with the handheld remote intermittently if I stood on a ladder and held it right beside the printed circuit board there's a problem that's around the logic board. I suspected something was wrong with the logic board because even after reprogramming the problem still existed.

I am a Senior Electrical Engineer by profession so I started narrowing the problem down to the logic board inside the overhead opener. During my troubleshooting I found that my outdoor wireless keypad entry was having the same problem. So I started doing some troubleshooting of the IR sensors and the rest of the system. So initially my garage door would open but would not close from the remote inside my car. I have an old Craftsman 1/2HP garage door opener (Part No: 41A5021-3C) I installed 22 years ago and I replaced the capacitor last night with success.

Garage door won t open with remote